In the textile industry, every number serves a purpose. At Essentials Stock Service, we explore the concept of NM (Metric Number) a measure that defines the essence of each fabric: its thickness, drape, performance, and function.
What Is Yarn Count?
Yarn count is the system used to measure the thickness or fineness of a thread. It’s based on the relationship between the yarn’s weight and its length and is essential to determine what type of yarn is needed for the desired fabric.
Simply put, the count tells us either how much yarn exists in a given weight or how much weight corresponds to a certain length, depending on the system used. This parameter directly influences fabric quality, strength, and appearance.
Yarn Count Systems
There are two main groups:
🔹 Direct Systems
- Tex: Indicates the weight in grams per 1000 meters of yarn.
- Denier: Represents the weight in grams per 9000 meters, commonly used for synthetic fibers.
👉 In direct systems, a higher number means a thicker yarn.
🔹 Indirect Systems
- Nm (Metric Number): Total length in meters / Total weight in kilograms This formula tells you how many meters of yarn exist per kilogram. For example
- Nm 10 = 10,000 meters per kilo
- Nm 40 = 40,000 meters per kilo (much finer)
- Nm 5 = 5,000 meters per kilo (thicker)
Example
You have a yarn that measures 20,000 meters and weighs 2 kg: Nm = 20,000 meters / 2 kg = Nm 10
What Does Nm 2/28 Mean?
This notation describes plied yarns—two or more strands twisted together.
- “28” indicates the count of each individual strand: Nm 28 = 28,000 meters per kilo.
- “2/” indicates that the yarn is made of 2 plies twisted together.
How Do You Interpret Its Thickness?
To get the final count: Nm final = Individual Nm / Number of plies Nm final = 28 / 2 = Nm 14
This means that Nm 2/28 has the thickness equivalent to Nm 14, but with a two-ply structure that enhances strength and stability.
This metric helps compare yarns of various materials and processing styles—especially in alpaca, where micron variation is significant.
Why Yarn Count Matters in Textile Quality
Yarn count determines not just yarn thickness, but also behavior in fabric.
- Finer yarns (higher Nm) result in light, delicate fabrics
- Thicker yarns (lower Nm) offer structure and durability
According to Testex, yarn quality depends on fiber uniformity, twist, and linear density. Yarn count helps maintain consistency in production.
Impact on Fabric
- Drape: Higher Nm yields fluid fabrics
- Strength: Lower Nm provides more robustness
- Appearance: Influences texture and transparency
Applications by Yarn Count
Factors That Affect Yarn Count
- Fiber type: Finer fibers allow higher counts
- Number of plies: More plies = stronger but coarser yarn
- Spinning process: Stretch and twist adjust final thickness
- Humidity: Can alter yarn weight
- Fiber origin: High-altitude alpaca produces finer fibers
For example, royal alpaca features fineness below 19 microns, allowing high counts like Nm 2/48 without sacrificing softness.
Yarn Count in Sustainable and Recycled Yarns
Recycled yarns are also counted, though the process is more complex. According to Hilados de Alta Calidad, yarns certified under standards like GRS (Global Recycled Standard) must meet traceability, composition, and quality parameters.
Counting ensures recycled yarns perform similarly to virgin ones. Plus, using raw yarns reduces environmental impact by avoiding dyeing processes.
How Yarn Count Optimizes Costs
Choosing the right count allows you to:
- Reduce waste: Match yarn to actual use
- Optimize budgets: Finer yarns save material in lightweight fabrics
- Avoid overspending: Thicker yarns suit high-use applications without excess bulk
Common Misconceptions Solved
Conclusion
Yarn count, especially the NM system, is more than a technical number. It’s a tool that brings intention, precision, and creativity to every textile. At Essentials Stock Service, we believe every yarn tells a story. That’s why we offer raw, natural yarns from 1 kg, ready to become something unique.
The invitation? Learn to speak the secret language of textiles. Master NM and step into a more conscious, versatile, and inspired fashion world.
